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American Guide Series · Volume 26

Montana

A State Guide Book

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Introduction

From Mullan’s Wagon Road to the Shining Mountains

The first Montana guidebook appeared in 1865 and described only one route—the Mullan Military Wagon Road, completed three years earlier—yet it took in a great deal of territory all the same. Its author, Captain John Mullan, who built the road, began his single “tour” at Walla Walla and carried it across the mountains of Idaho and Montana to Fort Benton, allowing forty-seven days for the six-hundred-mile trip. He described the Indians and the road conditions a traveler might meet, gave detailed advice on equipment and the care of horses and wagons, and cheerfully declined responsibility for anyone who took an unauthorized short cut.

Mullan’s road, the Writers’ Project noted in its preface, has long since been obliterated from the landscape and from all but the oldest memories; a network of modern highways now spans the country he wrote about. After a hiatus of two or three generations, the Project offered the Montana of 1939 in its place—presenting a relatively short but fascinating past as the background against which the daily experiences and concerns of the people, and the patterns of contemporary economic, social, and cultural life, are set. Above all it tried to convey the beautiful and varied natural setting of the state’s recreational country, the high “shining mountains” that earlier travelers had struggled across.

The book was, as its preface acknowledged, deeply indebted to many hands. Faculty members of Montana State University and Montana State College served as consultants; the regional office of the U.S. Forest Service opened its informational resources; park naturalists advised on the Glacier National Park chapter; and writers such as James Willard Schultz and the late Frank B. Linderman contributed authentic material on several of the Indian tribes and reservations. Reference librarians in Missoula and at the state university, and the staff of the Montana State Historical Library, rounded out the research behind the volume.

Montana is arranged like its companions in the series. General-background essays move from contemporary Montana through the natural setting and conservation, the era before the white man, history, the ethnic groups, agriculture, labor, industry, transportation, education, the arts, the press, and recreation. Descriptions of Billings, Butte, Great Falls, Helena, and Missoula follow, and then eighteen highway tours cross the plains and ranges of the Treasure State. A substantial final section is devoted to Glacier National Park, with its motor routes along the Going-to-the-Sun Highway and a series of trail tours into the high country, before a glossary, chronology, and bibliography close the book.

Sponsored by the state Department of Agriculture, Labor and Industry and first issued by Hastings House in 1939—with later printings carried into the 1950s—the guide is reproduced here as the Writers’ Project left it. The preface and the complete table of contents appear exactly as printed.


Contents

Table of Contents

Montana: A State Guide Book
Front Matter
Prefacevii
General Informationxviii
Calendar of Eventsxxiii
I. Montana: The General Background
Contemporary Montana3
Natural Setting and Conservation9
Before the White Man31
History38
Ethnic Groups57
Agriculture60
Labor68
Industry and Commerce79
Transportation89
Education, Religion, and Social Welfare96
The Arts102
The Press115
Recreation117
II. Cities and Towns
Billings127
Butte136
Great Falls148
Helena158
Missoula172
III. Tours
Tour 1. (Beach, N. D.)–Billings–Butte–Missoula–(Wallace, Idaho) [US 10-10S]185
Section a. North Dakota Line to Billings185
Section b. Billings to Junction with US 10N–10S194
Section c. Junction with US 10N to Garrison204
Section d. Garrison to Idaho Line209
Tour 1A. Jct. US 10S–Townsend–Helena–Garrison [US 10N]217
Tour 2. (Williston, N. D.)–Havre–Kalispell–(Bonners Ferry, Idaho) [US 2]223
Section a. North Dakota Line to Havre223
Section b. Havre to Browning Junction233
Section c. Browning Junction to Idaho Line239
Tour 2A. Fort Belknap Agency–Hays–Zortman [State 19]247
Tour 3. Jct. US 89–Lewiston–Billings–(Sheridan, Wyo.) [US 87]250
Section a. Junction with US 89 to Billings250
Section b. Billings to Wyoming Line259
Tour 4. (Calgary, Alta.)–Browning–Great Falls–Livingston–(Mammoth Hot Springs, Wyo.) [US 89]264
Section a. Canadian Border to Great Falls264
Section b. Great Falls to Livingston268
Section c. Livingston to Wyoming Line272
Tour 5. Bozeman–Gallatin Gateway–West Yellowstone–(St. Anthony, Idaho) [US 191]274
Tour 6. (Lethbridge, Alta.)–Great Falls–Helena–Butte–(Idaho Falls, Idaho) [US 91]280
Section a. Canadian Border to Great Falls280
Section b. Great Falls to Butte283
Section c. Butte to Idaho Line289
Tour 7. (Cranbrook, B. C.)–Kalispell–Missoula–Hamilton–(Salmon, Idaho) [US 93]293
Section a. Canadian Border to Kalispell293
Section b. Kalispell to Missoula295
Section c. Missoula to Idaho Line300
Tour 8. Helena–Lincoln–Bonner–Jct. US 10 [State 20, State 31]304
Tour 9. (Charbonneau, N. D.)–Fairview–Jordan–Grass Range [State 14, State 18]312
Tour 10. (Moose Jaw, Sask.)–Glasgow–Miles City–Wyoming Line–(Belle Fourche, S. D.) [State 22]317
Section a. Canadian Border to Glasgow317
Section b. Glasgow to Miles City319
Section c. Miles City to Wyoming Line322
Tour 10A. Wheeler–Fort Peck–Fort Peck Rd.324
Tour 11. Forsyth–Roundup–White Sulphur Springs–Townsend [State 6]326
Tour 12. Ravalli–Plains–Thompson Falls–(Sand Point, Idaho) [State 3]332
Tour 13. Laurel–Rockvale–Warren–(Lovell, Wyo.) [US 310]338
Tour 13A. Rockvale–Red Lodge–Cooke–(Yellowstone Nat’l Park) [State 32]340
Tour 14. (Manyberries, Alta.)–Havre–Great Falls [State 29]348
Tour 15. Jct. US 10S–Ennis–Jct. US 191 [State 1]354
Tour 16. Jct. US 10S–Virginia City–Ennis [State 41, State 34]356
Tour 17. (Bowman, N. D.)–Baker–Miles City [US 12]363
Tour 18. Jct. US 10S–Anaconda–Philipsburg–Drummond [US 10A]368
Glacier National Park375
Park Tour 1. St. Mary–Logan Pass–Lake McDonald–Belton (Going-to-the-Sun Highway)384
Park Tour 1A. Apgar–Canadian Border390
Park Tour 2. Jct. US 2–Two Medicine Chalets392
Park Tour 3. Jct. US 89–Rocky Mountain Trail Ranch393
Park Tour 4. Babb–Many Glacier Hotel393
Trail Tour 1. Going-to-the-Sun–Many Glacier–Lake McDonald395
Trail Tour 2. Glacier Park Station to Scenic Point (Mount Henry Trail)401
Trail Tour 3. Two Medicine Chalets to Upper Two Medicine Lake402
Trail Tour 4. Two Medicine Chalets to Two Medicine Pass403
Trail Tour 5. Many Glacier Hotel to Grinnell Glacier404
Trail Tour 6. Many Glacier Hotel to Iceberg Lake405
Trail Tour 7. Granite Park Chalets to Logan Pass406
Trail Tour 8. Avalanche Creek Campground to Avalanche Lake407
Trail Tour 9. Lake McDonald Hotel to Mount Brown408
Trail Tour 10. Logan Pass to Hidden Lake409
IV. Appendices
Montana Glossary413
Chronology417
Bibliography425
Index430

Bibliographic Record

About This Volume

Title
Montana: A State Guide Book
Author
Federal Writers’ Project (Works Progress Administration / Work Projects Administration)
Series
American Guide Series · Volume 26
Sponsor
the Department of Agriculture, Labor and Industry, State of Montana
Foreword / Preface
Byron Crane, State Director, and John A. Stahlberg, Editor
Publisher
Hastings House, New York, 1939
Printings
First published September 1939; second printing May 1946; third printing (revised) June 1949; fourth printing June 1955.
Rights
Copyright 1949 by Hastings House, Publishers, Inc.; copyright 1939 by the Department of Agriculture, Labor and Industry, State of Montana.
Description
Illustrated with photographs and maps; general essays, city descriptions, 18 highway tours, a Glacier National Park section with park and trail tours, glossary, chronology, bibliography, and index. xxiii, 449 pp.
Subjects
Montana—Description and travel—Guidebooks; Montana—History; Automobile travel—Montana; Glacier National Park (Mont.).

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